Currypedia No. 5: Lassi
Unbelievably, it’s been over six months since the last instalment in TATTGOC’s ongoing series demystifying the world of curry. Judging by both our most recent outing (to the Dubai Grill, more on which next Thursday) and our lassi-drenched visit to The Village last year, I think it’s safe to say that January is officially the month that the TATTGOC bretheren most closely associate with the cooling, soothing, comforting joys of lassi. Maybe it’s because we’re trying to cut back on the booze after the festivities, maybe it’s to combat the overspending of Christmas, but it’s now become tradition to forego the furious onslaught of multiple pints of lager in favour of the traditional and authentic joys of an ice-cold lassi. But what exactly is it?
Lassi is popular across the whole of India and Pakistan and is a cold drink made of yoghurt combined with water or milk which is then sweetened or spiced to taste. The resulting beverage is a perfect accompaniment to any curry, but is especially revered for its ability to cool the mouth after even the most fiery of dishes. In the UK, most Indian restaurants offer sweet or salted lassi but the mango variety – which simply adds mango pulp to the yoghurt/water mix – can be found here too. It seems that the beauty of the lassi in India is the wide variety of possible flavours and mixes that can be created. Spiced lassi, for example, usually contains ground roasted cumin seeds as standard but after that the exact spice mix will vary depending on the seller. While mango lassi is the most common flavoured variety found in the UK all sorts of other fruit can be used to liven up the drink.
Different regions have their own specialities too – the particularly rich saffron lassi is a favourite in Jodhpur and Sindh. Rajasthan seems to be the epicentre of lassi experimentation however, specialising in not only saffron lassi but also makkhaniya lassi and the notorious bhang lassi. The Tramp thinks that there is surely a market for makkhaniya lassi in Scotland – it’s lassi with lumps of butter blended through it, and has been described by one traveller as tasting almost like cheesecake but not quite.
Bhang lassi is made by grinding the leaves and buds of the marijuana plant to a thick green paste which is then blended into the lassi – with typically cosmic consequences. Basically, they’re just massive space yoghurts. Check out this footage of famed chef and legendary badass Anthony Bourdain sampling a bhang lassi from a government-approved vendor in Rajasthan. Note that he is offered varying strengths of the concoction – “normal strong, super-duper sexy strong and full-power, 24 hour, no toilet, no shower.” Oaft!
So there we have it. Whether you just fancy a break from the booze or are trying to calm the fire of a particularly brutal vindaloo, why not try a lassi? TATTGOC recommends it. Just remember the words of wisdom from our fellow Scots over at the We Love The Lassi’s: “a Scottish lassie is not a yoghurt based drink.” (I’d also recommend popping over to read their blog, charting the progress of three Scots as they travel from Nepal down to the south coast of India in a tuk-tuk for charity.)
From Our Foreign Curryspondent ... Dateline: Sri Lanka!
“Spices, spices, always I am eating spices,” says robbing bastard, liar and general bad guy Bernard as we hurtle around Colombo in a tuk tuk. Shortly thereafter, he demands 2000 rupees (less than an hour ago, he'd said it would be 300) for allegedly giving us a tour. In fact, all we've done is tear around the block and get dumped outside a Buddhist temple in front of a couple of bemused monks. Something tells me that the clipboard identifying him as a qualified tour guide may have been fabricated ... Here, in Sri Lanka’s capital, he is not alone in being spice fiend (or bastard for that matter) which perhaps goes some way to explaining why mosquitoes feast so readily on tourists, but leave locals well alone, no matter how much they chance their arm.
When ordering a curry here, it’s not just a case of picking a single dish and a single rice, nor are there the wide choice of types of curry. There is simply Curry, the term for any dish at the heart of a sprawling spice selection. It’s not uncommon for ten or more tapas-style bowls to be fighting for room on the table by the time a waiter has finished. At the centre sits a perennial, preposterously large, bowl of rice. Coconut sambal also turns up in every restaurant and hotel, as does potato dahl. In each instance they are far spicier than I, as a colonial wimp, expect. Green beans, mushrooms, tomatoes … All of them for the basis for individual dishes, making for a colourful display.
Perhaps that makes the whole experience sound a little disappointing, when it certainly isn’t. Each of the dishes tastes wonderfully distinct from one another – there’s none of the creamy blandness you might find in a UK curry house here. The ingredients, which spring from plants that cover every inch of non-developed land, taste wonderfully fresh too.
Aubergine pops up regularly and is always a surprise treat as does the frequent – if subtle – flavour of cinnamon. That’s mibbe not so surprising when you consider that Sri Lanka is the world capital when it comes to the growing and harvesting of the stuff.
Their presence often makes up for the almost total absence of naans. Indeed, on the one occasion we are served our doughy favourite, the offering is petit, pancake-like and not altogether worthwhile.
The same cannot be said for the local lager, Lion, which comes in big 700ml bottles, is dirt cheap and actually tastes Pretty Good. Alongside the wide, generous selection of curry dishes I find in Sri Lanka, it’s just about enough to take my mind of that shiny shyster Bernard.
Tikka Mabaws, out.
Curry Club Close-Up: Some Pilau Talk With The Gheezer

Name: The Gheezer / GZA
How did that nickname come about? It was bestowed because of my London provenance. And because it has the word Ghee in it. I’m only kind of from London though, having spent some early years in “frightfully” Surrey. GZA is obviously an abbreviation of Gheezer, but also reflects my ongoing creative partnership with Gary Grice aka The Genius aka “the other GZA.”
Favourite Glasgow curry house: By virtue of the fact that it’s near the hoose but was also, weirdly, an unknown quantity for me before it swung into TATTGOC’s sights, I’m going to say Anarkali. Great food, friendly staff, BYOB, a waiter with a bottle-opening technique even better than Rabbie Shankar’s, and a short stagger home. Perfect.
Second favourite Glasgow curry house: Hard one this. I think Mr India’s Balti and Dosa House does it for me, although I’ve only visited once and was marooned, uncomprehending, amidst a sea of TATTGOC Watchmen chat. Oaft.
Favourite Glasgow curry takeaway: Chillies on Woodlands Road, though I’ve not sampled it since they’ve extended it to include seating.
All-time favourite curry dish: Dear God. It takes me long enough to decide when there’s a menu in front of me but that’s some question. It’s often hard to go wrong with a Jalfrezi (insert manly salute here)
All-time curry idol: Dell Gakhal from The Real Spice of Life caterers. Dell and his sons Kidj and Guv are responsible for me sometimes getting to live off curry for months at a time. Magnificent men, and if you’re passing the Cessnock stretch of Paisley Road look out for their takeaway shop. My curry anti-idol is Edwina Currie.
Rice or naan? Both. At gunpoint, rice.
Favourite curry lager: Something Czech (Pilsner Urquell a favourite) if it’s there; otherwise a Cobra. Nothing against a tall cold Tennent’s either actually. So ... basically anything.
What's the most exotic place you've had a curry? Er, is San Francisco exotic? I thought it was – they had proper American-style steaming manholes and everything. Anyway, the curry was fucking awful. Soggy poppadoms and incredibly greasy food all served in a cheaply decorated but expensively priced “theme” nightmare.
Can you actually make a decent curry yourself at home? I reckon I could have a go but fortunately I’m blessed with a curry-mad SAAG who’s also an excellent cook. So no worries there.
If so, can we all come round for our tea? I’ll just ask ...

What's the story with you owning an American muscle car? Look, it wasn’t a muscle car, right? (Though I wish it had been ...) It was a 1985 Chevy Blazer I bought for a song in California in 2000, with the plan being to drive to New York and flog it there. But as I neared the East Coast I had a nagging feeling that I was quite attached to this motor. So across the Atlantic it came and I drove it about here until 2008, when I flogged it on eBay to a bloke called Pete who drove up through the night from Brighton to collect it. There was an Orange Walk going on when I met him in Govan to pick it up and he was utterly perplexed and mildly terrified. Anyway, he’s going to cut it to bits and turn it into a hot rod or something. In any case, I prefer the bike for hassle-free travel round the town, though I’d advise against cycling to Curry Club. The ride home is the problem. Legality of cycling pished aside, the exertion causes ghee and lager to be pumped round the system at a heart-palpitating rate and isn’t recommended even for hardy TATTGOCers.

(PS: Kat has also thoughtfully provided a picture of my head stuck on top of Borat in the mankini. Just in case, like.)
REVIEW: Back To The Fuchsia

Booking Name: Mr Werner Herzog
The Pub Aforehand: M J Heraghty's, Pollokshaws Road
In Attendance: Trampy, The Tramp, Rabbie Shankar, Rogan Josh Homme, Jalfrezi, The Gheezer, The Birmingham Wan and The Bulldosa
Decor: Miami Vice-like nitespot.
Expectations: No Clubber appeared to have direct experience of Shimla Pinks beyond the odd takeaway experience – but there were some fearsome reviews online.
The Experience:
'Twas the night afore Christmas
When all through the curryhouse
Not a starter was stirring
Not even a samosa.

Almost as soon as the venue was announced, some Clubbers cried “foul”. For doesn’t TATTGOC’s hastily assembled mission statement promise to avoid those Glasgow curryhouses that are either “longstanding institutions” or “cannily-marketed chains”? And isn’t Shimla Pinks a chain, with at least one another outlet in Johnstone, and almost an institution, in that most Glasgow folks have heard of it? In their typically gracious and diplomatic manner, the Tramps promptly quashed all disaccord by shouting considerably louder than the dissenters. Clubbers were invited to vote with their feet: if you dinnae fancy one in the Pinks, dinnae turn up to the pub. And so the debate was amiably defused.









Range Of Drinks: Tennent’s and Cobra on draught, and a vast array of spirits. Cocktails probably wouldn’t be out of the question either.

Lowlights: Lugubrious service initially; teeny tiny rice portions.
The Verdict: A suitably seasonal experience!
The Damage: £185.00 (tip: £23.00)
Another Important Announcement
One small step for naan; one giant leap for naankind.
Happy New Year to all when it comes, love Trampy and The Tramp

Lots Of Bars But No Drink
Meanwhile, here's a very special festive song ...
(For the full sorry tale, click here; the excellent production job was courtesy of these guys)
We're Wrapping, We're Wrapping, We're Wrap, Wrap, Wrapping ...
Okay, on with the spicy stocking fillers!
Saturday Morning Cookery Course
It's only £85 for this three-hour demonstration of the curry basics, but it does take place somewhere down in Surrey. (It's not clear whether this is simply because "Surrey" rhymes with "curry", but we like to think so.) And who is your host? None other than Pat Chapman, celebrity chef and founder of The Curry Club (nope, not that one). Apparently he's a dab hand at mixing up the correct spices for tikka masala, chicken jalfrezi and chickpea curry. And if you manage to go the distance, you get to go home with a pot of Chapman's own sauce.
Shish Mahal Cook Book
In some of his korma-infected dreams, The Tramp fantasises about starting an global evangelical brotherhood akin to Gideons International, but instead of installing free Bibles in hotel rooms, his immaculately-suited, methodical agents would carefully enshrine copies of the Shish Mahal Cook Book in bedside tables worldwide, the better to propogate the pungent magic of Glasgow's most venerable curryhouse. And right now, it's only £5.99 on Amazon!

Considering the default setting of curry humour is almost entirely concerned with the following day's bathroom routine, we're generally fairly restrained at TATTGOC when it comes to the lavatorial stuff. (Although admittedly there are usually one or two comments that refer to "the pan" after each of our monthly write-ups.) But just as anyone who plays golf has long had to put up with receiving jokey novelty Christmas gifts lampooning their chosen hobby, so now curry lovers can experience that same mix of heartsinking disappointment and rising irritation when tearing off the brightly coloured paper to uncover something that's essentially worthless. To wit, here's a cylinder of baby wipes with a garish "comedy" label. For you, guv? A mere £2.99 ...
Domestic Tandoori Clay Oven
Now we're getting serious. TATTGOC debated the merits of building a tandoori oven back in June, and for under £300 we could get our grubby mitts on this stainless steel-enclosed clay oven that comes with all kinds of skewers, like more skewers than you can possibly imagine. Just reading the description of how the process works – after marination, the bespiked ingredients are placed vertically in the pre-heated tandoor, where the blasting temperature seals the flavour inside, the clay and charcoal mingle in their earthy, aromatic flavours and the skewer itself helps conduct heat inside the meat – is truly mouthwatering. Worth reading the small print though: "This tandoori oven is for outside use only." Shame. Would have looked nice in the flat.
Have you got any curry-related gift ideas? Let us know in the comments below ...
From Our Foreign Curryspondent ... Dateline: Prague!
REVIEW: The Mailsi in Prague
The Date: 11 April 2009
Booking Name: No reservation was made
The Pub Aforehand: Too numerous to remember - there seem to be a lot of photos of us drinking in the main square that day though
In Attendance: The Tramp, The Mighty Flemado
Decor: A surprisingly cosy and modern basement setup with a heavy red and green fixation. Fishtanks embedded into the walls were a nice touch, as were the velvetine paintings.
Expectations: Expectations were running high, some research had been conducted prior to the trip and the ex-pats online were all pointing to the Mailsi as being a strong contender for top curry house in the city.
The Experience: It was a very sad day for The Tramp when The Mighty Flemado took off to seek fame and fortune (well, not exactly fame and fortune but a career boost) on the mean streets of South London. Since he made the move south we've not been able to catch up anywhere near as
I'd done my research prior to flying out to Prague and had set the curry cannon's sights firmly on The Mailsi Pakistani Restaurant on Lipanska, word on the internet was that it was home to the best curry in Prague and offered an authentic experience familiar to those spoiled by the top notch curry houses we take for granted in the UK.
Arriving on the Thursday we promptly set about drinking our combined weights of the local beer in various drinking establishments - our favourite being U Zlateho Tygra (The Golden Tiger)
Highlights: High quality main courses, awesome bar, authentically low-key, non-touristy vibe
Lowlights: Disappointing naan
The Verdict: Top quality curry in the land of the most awesome beer ever - what's not to like?
The Damage: 1030 CZK (approximately £35)
A Bit Spesh

There are, literally, almost a dozen examples of such synchronicity: A Bug's Life and Antz; Paul Blart: Mall Cop and Observe And Report; Tombstone and Wyatt Earp ...
I could go on.
Mission To Mars and Red Planet; The Illusionist and The Prestige; Dante's Peak and Volcano. Um, did I say Antz already? Hmmm. So why does it happen? Cynics will tell you that scripts get passed around Hollywood all the time, so loads of opportunistic executives are ready to greenlight copycat projects if they think they might turn a buck. But crazy dreamers will tell you that certain stories – powerful, primeval expressions of the eternal lifeforce – are just floating round the ether, waiting to be given form. I think we can all appreciate the relevance of that right now.
When TATTGOC founder member Slumdog Millionaire's Shortbread moved to London earlier this year, one of the first things he did was scope out a nearby curryhouse: the Forest Tandoori, formerly the Anika Tandoori. And since oor ain SMS is nothing if not thorough, he checked the web for reviews to see if this place was up to much. And that's when he discovered Shrub And The Spesh's World Tour Of London ...

"We are touring London's curry houses borough by borough. Why don't you join us? (Figuratively that is, not literally: you are not welcome to actually come along)"
As you may have noticed, there are more than a few similarities between TATTGOC and SATSWTOL: Spesh and The Shrub have vowed to tour curry houses within a specific geographical area, they're using Blogger as their delivery platform, they've got cool but opaque nicknames and they're certainly not afraid of being a bit passive-aggressive. (They also seem to have a similarly bickering relationship based on a deep heterosexual love – the entry where Shrub realises The Spesh has managed to miss out Hillingdon on their supposedly alphabetical list of boroughs is particularly entertaining.)
As it turns out, Shrub and The Spesh began their Dickensian odyssey way back in April 2006, so TATTGOC is sort of the Johnny-come-lately to this paratha party but, hand on heart, the Tramps were unaware of the sporadic majesty of SATSWTOL when they painfully birthed their own spicy effort. So I guess we're coming down on the powerful, primeval expression of the eternal lifeforce side of the synchronicity argument.
Since being introduced to the rat-a-tat, no-nonsense reviewing style of SATSWTOL, the Tramps have kept a close eye on the site's curry comings-and-goings (even commenting, on occasion). And since Spesh and The Shrub are poised to finally complete their stated mission after countless months of effort, the Tramps thought it was high time to salute their endeavours. So here are five favourite SATSWTOL posts, and why we liked 'em, in chronological order:
Croydon, Nov 2006 – An instructive tale of the dangers of upselling, and a dodgy metal pub after. Sounds sorta familiar ...
Enfield, Jan 2007 – Ha ha! Cockfosters! Cockfosters ...
Kensington & Chelsea, May 2008 – The Spesh comes dressed as a gentleman farmer in anticipation of their poshest curry house yet.
Richmond-upon-Thames, Apr 2009 – The story of a prick-driven Porsche parked on a river slipway bears retelling ...
Waltham Forest, Sept 2009 – Includes a review of sci-fi shish Planet Popadum, which sounds like the best curryhouse in the history of space and time.
Here's hoping that the borough of Westminster – their last scheduled visit – throws up something suitably epic to conclude their awesome tour of the Currywealth. But would it kill them to take some kind of picture? It would be nice to see these curry heroes in feedia res ...